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Lizards
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If
I had to
pick a favorite reptile or amphibian group, it would probably be chameleons.
They are amazing to watch and some types can make pretty good
pets. I have kept several types of chameleons, and
I (like many others) would recommend
veiled chameleons for first-time chameleon owners for a
variety of
reasons: 1. They are easily bred in captivity, so captive
bred
individuals are
readily available at reasonable prices ($30-50 for a young specimen if
you buy from a breeder at a reptile swap). 2. They are
good-sized
lizards, and can be fed many types of insects. 3. Their
habitat
requirements aren't as difficult to maintain as are those of
some other types of chameleons, and this is especially helpful for
those of us without central air and with radiator heat. 4.
They are distinctive in form with their large head casque and
can
show beautiful colors and patterns. I currently have a single veiled chameleon, Samira (Sam), whom I purchased from a breeder in August of 1999 when she was four months old. (Male veiled chameleons are distinguished by the presence of a higher head casque and posteriorly-directed spurs on the backs of the hind feet.) I usually hand feed her and so she is very used to being around people. I do not, however, take her out of the cage very often, as it tends to stress her out. |
   Sam's
cage is a modified bird
cage (left). I use a small florist's vial for holding fresh
greens (middle); most of the greens have been eaten by the chameleon
already. Cable ties are a great way to create a network of
branches for a chameleon to climb on (right).
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The
conventional wisdom is that chameleons should only be kept in open
enclosures, not in aquaria or similar set-ups. I'm not
inclined
to test the conventional wisdom, so I also keep my
various chameleons in open enclosures. Sam lives in a bird
cage I
won at a raffle that measures 18" x 18" x 36"
high. It works well as a chameleon enclosure because it is
large
and vertically oriented; veiled chameleons are arboreal and need plenty
of room to climb. I especially like the presence of large
spaces
between the wires because it allows the chameleon to climb the cage
walls without breaking off her claws or getting them stuck; this is a
real risk when using cages made of fine mesh screen. The
substrate is sand mixed with a bit of gravel, mainly to emulate the
native habitat of veiled chameleons in
Yemen. In addition to giving a chameleon plenty of space to climb, it is necessary to give them something to climb on, besides the cage walls. The most effective way I have found to simulate the shrub and tree branches that these chameleons climb on in the wild is to erect an extensive network of sticks, held together by cable ties (also known as zip ties; see photo above). I just use dead sticks collected from a nearby park and make an effort to collect ones of varying thicknesses so that the network will more closely approximate the natural variation in stick diameter chameleons encounter in the wild; this also helps them exercise their leg and foot muscles. When erecting a new network, I use four to six relatively thick, vertical sticks that extend the height of the aquarium as the main supports. I then connect the main supports to each other with sticks of varying lengths, placed at varying angles (including horizontal). I also make sure to have at least one branch that runs above the chameleon's feeding dish, and another that runs beneath the basking lamp(s). For most chameleons, it's a good idea to use lots of live vegetation in the enclosure to give them places to hide and feel more secure. However, veiled chameleons are unique among chameleons in incorporating a significant amount of vegetation into their diet. Accordingly, most plants you put with a veiled chameleon will end up with bite marks in them. You therefore shouldn't use any that might harm the chameleon if eaten or that you wouldn't want chewed on. Since I like my tanks to look naturalistic, I get around this problem by using thick or spiny succulent plants (e.g., euphorbs, cacti) that a chameleon isn't inclined to eat in the first place. These plants have the added benefit of simulating the vegetation of the chameleon's native habitat. I also provide my chameleons with fresh greens nearly every day. I feed them to the chameleon by placing a leaf or two in a small water-filled vial (obtained from my local florist ) and sliding that vial into a pair of twist-tie loops attached to a high branch (see photo above). The water in the vial prevents the greens from drying out quickly, allowing the chameleon to eat them at leisure. Turnip greens, collard greens, mustard greens, and kale all work well. I have never seen my veiled chameleon drink water. I set up a drip system for Sam when I first got her, but she never showed any interest. I suspect she gets all her water from the greens she eats and at this point, I have basically given up trying to get her to drink. For insects, my chameleons primarily eat crickets, cockroaches, and superworms. These are supplemented with waxworms and mealworms, and the occasional insect caught outside (or inside). I dust the insects with vitamin supplements every few feedings, but I always make sure the insects are well-fed themselves before feeding them to lizards. As with all basking lizards, it is necessary to have both a heat lamp (a regular incandescent bulb in a clip lamp fixture) and a UVB lamp for veiled chameleons. I have both for Sam and make sure to have branches directly underneath them so Sam can properly regulate her temperature. |
 When
Sam is ready to lay eggs, I
place
her in a garbage can partially filled with wet sand in which she can
dig
a hole to lay them in (left). A standard batch includes about
75
eggs,
each the size of a small jelly bean; the ones in the photo have been
dried
to preserve them (right).
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One
downside
to female veiled chameleons is that they will lay eggs whether they
have been with a male or not. Sam has laid at least six
clutches
of eggs, each including between 70-80 jelly bean sized
eggs. Laying infertile eggs is not a
problem for veiled chameleons as long as they are in good health and
have a suitable place to lay them. When I notice that Sam is
looking fat and see her scratching in the sand on the bottom of the
cage, I know she's ready
to lay. I take a kitchen trash can and fill it with four to
five
gallons of moist sand (i.e., to a depth of a foot or so). The
sand should be moist enough for the chameleon to dig a tunnel without
it collapsing. I then place Sam in the trash can along with a
couple of sticks, and let her go to work. She will usually
dig a
tunnel all the way
to the bottom of the trash can (see photo above), then turn around and
start laying eggs. If she starts in the evening, she's done
by
the next morning and the eggs are completely buried. I then
put
her back in her cage, and dispose of (or dry) the eggs. UK Chameleons has a nice care sheet on veiled chameleons. |
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This
page was last updated on December 12, 2006.
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